Tuesday, September 24, 2013

7/9 to 13/9: Kilimanjaro

I started out late from Arusha on Saturday because we had to pick up the two guys going with me up Kili from the airport. I thought they were Italian but then I heard their names: Carlos and Pablo, and I asked my guide, Iddi: “They are Spanish, right?” They are. That night we slept in Mama Clementina’s hotel that is a charity hotel supporting young girls through their education. After a good night’s sleep we headed for the office to make the last payment and arrangement and to meet the rest of the crew. Then we set off for the Machame Gate that would be our starting point on our Kili trek. There we had to wait a long time while we were registered, the last money was paid and the bags and other things were weighed. We meet our two other guides here: Nasoro and Seba. Carlos has tried to reach Uhuru peak once before, so he knew all our guides, though Seba had been a cook before. It was finally time to start our trek, so we began, leaving Iddi behind to do the last paperwork. This first stage of the trek was about four to five hours through the rainforest. It was incredibly beautiful, you could really see it was a rainforest because there was moss everywhere, and I got my fresh air to breath. We just walked along and talked about all kinds of stuff, like we would continue to in the next few days, but that I no longer remember. The trek was about a 1200 meter gain in altitude from the gate at 1800 meter to the Machame hut, where we would be sleeping, at about 3000 meter. So the path was steep in places, even with stairs made of wood in quite a few places. Because all the climbers had set off at different times there wasn’t any queuing as there would be the next couple of days, which was really nice because then you could really experience the magic of the rainforest. The Machame hut is at the edge of the rainforest, and just before we arrived we walked through a mist, the trees had also gotten smaller so it added to the mystery that is Kilimanjaro. We were sleeping under the trees so we had cover from the wind. I can tell you, the food was really good and much more varied than I have gotten used to, so during the time on the mountain I got known as the one in our dinner tent always eating the most, if there was only one piece left, I got it. The next day we set off sometime after 8 am in the line already formed on the way to the next camp. It started out the steepest part (though I seem to remember it continued for quite a while) so it was good that there was a line and that we always had to stop and wait for porters to overtake us. It was a beautiful day as we walked along a ridge leading us closer to the mountain, so we could see a lot of things surrounding us. Sometimes when we had just reached one top, we could see tiny people already on the way to the next one, so we knew which way to go. This trek was only some 3 and a half hours, so we reached the Shira cave, the next camp, before lunch and had a nice warm one there. In the afternoon we walked a little more to the Shira hut which is a camp for a different route up Kili. This was just an hour both ways so we had time to enjoy the scenery and the splendid Kili. The altitude was now around 3800 meters, the sunset over the Shira mountains was quite incredible. The next day, day three, we had to walk up to a place called lava tower at around 4600 meter I think and then down from there to the camp which was about the same altitude as the Shira cave, because we had to get used to the altitude, but not get too much at once. When we reached the lava tower I had a bit of a headache, but it got better as soon as I sat down and had some lunch. From there it was only, mostly, down. This stage took some five to six hours. I really like the next camp, the Barranco camp, because you can see both where you came from and where you are going and it is this piece of flat land that is just stunning. What we could see of the beginning was the breakfast (Barranco) wall, one of my favorite parts of the route. Because it is a wall, a very easy wall to climb, but it meant that we could use our hands as well, so it was really fun. On top of the breakfast wall we could see the summit, or at least close, and feel that it wasn’t long at all now. From there we still had a long way to go before reaching the last camp at Barafu – a lot of valleys to cross. At one point we stood quite high up and we could see we had to go way down, before going higher than we were already, though I had started to hate going down only to go further up again, we did it – pole pole (slowly) and were eventually at Karanga. A camp that I was supposed to sleep in, because I had booked seven days, but as Carlos and Pablo had to do it in six, to catch their plane on the same day as going down, I wanted to do it with them and continued with them to Barafu. Both Carlos and Pablo are 42 years old, engineers, from Madrid and good friends. Pablo has a wife and three children, one girl around 12 years old, one boy who is eight – almost nine, and a little girl that is one year and some months. Carlos has a fiancé. Pablo’s little girl is the same age as the guide Nasoro’s daughter. This next part of the stage was some of the hardest, a kind of test for the summiting as there was a lot of fog so that we couldn’t see all that much and it was just up and up. But miraculously we reached Barafu after some six hours in total and got a good night’s rest (not so much sleeping) before attempting the summit. We had decided to start later than usual. Most climbs start at midnight, this is what Carlos did last time, and one of the contributing factors to him having to come down before the summit. We started around 2:30 to 3 am this meant that we could see everybody higher up on the mountain because of all of the flashlights, but it also meant we were alone on out stretch of the mountain. So we went in our own tempo with Nasoro in the front, we had a few short breaks along the way to get some warm tea and rest a little bit. Then the sun came up, most people would see that from the summit, but as we were climbing towards the west, we had a splendid view of the sun behind us. After the sun had gone up we did the rest of the climb in the daylight, which was a big help because then you could see that there wasn’t so much left. Though of course there still was some two to three hours left. As I wasn’t taking any altitude medicine the further up we got the more you could feel it, it was like a pressure in the head. Then we reached Stella point at 5700 and something, from there we could see the actual summit, but it was still quite a way to 5895 meters. When we reached the summit the headache had started to get worse, it was really nice to be there and have done it, but I was like: yeah, let’s get down again now. As soon as we started going down the headache lessened. It was so much fun going because we (or at least Nasoro and I) were practically skiing down through the rock debris. Which was nowhere near as hard as going up where every step took effort, here you just have to move your feet fast and avoid the rocks and you’d be fine. It took six or seven hours up, but only one down to Barafu again. After a good warm lunch we had to go further down to the next came, which took some three hours. But it wasn’t nearly as much fun as there were a lot of stone steps and things that were easy to fall over after a long day. We eventually reached the Mweka hut, we were going down via the Mweka route which is only for descend, Machame is only for ascend. I had a few blisters on my feet, but otherwise I was fine, though my mood could have been better. The next morning the crew was singing and dancing for us and afterwards we gave them their tips. The night before we had learned that there were more porters with us than we had originally thought there would be. Something we could have avoided if we had been introduced to them in the beginning, which I wanted to, but there never seemed to be time for it. There was a cook, a waiter/porter named Adam, who was the only one except the guides that we really talked all that much to and nine porters, I don’t remember all their names, but there was: Jackson who was always listening to reggae music, Ibrahim whom I thought was younger than me but turned out to be 21, he was carrying my bag, Goodluck who seemed charming, but was missing one of his front teeth so maybe he did not have so much good luck. I don’t really remember more of their names as I only heard them that one time, but I remember their faces. Then we went the last two to three hours down, it was better than the day before as there were not that many stones and only a few big steps. Then we reached the end of our trek and signed out, we drove together back to Moshi town where I was staying at a hotel called the Kindoroko Hotel. Because I paid for seven days, so I got to spend my last night in a hotel, with a hot shower and cable TV. So I spend the rest of the day eating lunch, taking showers, watching movies, and sleeping. I remember that some five or something years ago I made a list of things I wanted to do – a bucket list, the only thing that I originally wrote on it, that I wanted to do all those years ago, that has anything to do with this trip, was to climb mount Kilimanjaro. How is that for a dream come true? It exceeded all of my expectations and so much more. Just do it!

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